Thank you very much, for your quick answer! I now decided to go with two 12V Power Supplies in series though.
I received my Odrive and I chose the one with the pre-soldered connectors. Compared to the wire gauges I need, to support the current, they seem pretty small. Are they capable of supporting a constant 100 amps over a long period? Or is there another recommended connector, that fits those bigger holes?
Thanks in advance and kind regards 
No, but neither is the ODrive unless you cool it a lot. If you plan on running the ODrive really hard, I would suggest you solder some thick wires directly to the bigger holes. You can use the bottom side of the board, and then you don’t need to desolder the screw terminals.
You can use a short wire with a large bullet connector so you can easily unplug things still.
Thanks a lot, for your quick support! I am actually planning on running two motors at 50 amps each. So the only connector, that is exposed to 100 amps is the power input one. I just read the post, showing max currents for the corresponding cooling methods and according to that, a simple fan would be enough to keep the ODrive cool.
Just for clearence, I would like to quickly introduce you to my project: I am a young student from Switzerland and I am working on my high school graduation project. My plan is to build a 6DoF robot arm. For axis 2, 3, 4 and 5 I want to use BLDCs with attached planetary gearboxes. Axis 2 and 3 are ODrive D5065 motors and axis 4 and 5 would be 4250-350kv motors. These are attached to Nema 23 and Nema 17 planetary gearboxes. There is actually a YouTube channel, that shows some amazing designs for BLDC and planetary gearbox robot actuators. (It’s called: “Skyentific”)
Once I finished building some working test joints, I’ll definitely post some pictures, etc. in a project topic.
Awesome yeah please post pictures and even work in progress if you want to!
Sure, I’ll see what my time schedule allows.
You have to remember that you only get 16A from single phase. So 2600W. That Aztec gives you 2900 so you won’t need a 100 Amp connector unless you plan to run 3 phase power supplies.
It’s not because you send 100A total to the motors that the power input will be 100A
Cheers
Carelsbergh Stijn
I switched to HP 1200W PSUs. Two in series for 24V and one for 12V. Every one of those will get it’s own 16 Amp 220V phase.
Yes, it’s 50 Amps per motor, so the only connector exposed to 100 Amps is the input one. But I’ll solder the wire directly to the PCB anyways.
Cheers
Amps don’t work like this with bldc motors but ok, if you solder it, it will be okay.
Cheers
Carelsbergh
I plan on doing the same.
Did you have any issues?
Did you isolate PE or DC ground?
Do you control them with simple en signal or PMbus?
Do you read the current over an analog pin?
If that confused you here, I can help with a link
Hi,
no, I didn’t run into any issues so far. It works really well.
I had to isolate the DC ground, by replacing the case screws with nylon screws and adding some nylon washers as well.
I also designed a custom PCB, to connect the two PSUs together. It adds the components, to automatically start the PSUs and it has nice big holes to solder the wires to. I found the correct card edge connectors on DigiKey, so you can remove or replace the PSUs more easily. I can send you the gerber files if you like.
I am actually a little bit confused with your last two points, so it would be great if you could help me with a link.
Cheers
There’s a guy on the internet that reverse engineered them and posted it on his blog
They have a present signal, a enable, probably PMbus (Power management similar to I2C), and an analog pin with a voltage proportional to the current.
Do not disconnect PE. Isolate the DC ground from the shell of the psu. Place diodes across the psu output terminals.
And you’ll get 3680 watts from single 16A phase so a single phase is enough for you. With those 3 psu’s.
For connectors you should use something rated around 70A for the motors and about 100A for the input. Spec for more than you need.
I don’t use any monitoring for the output current. Here is a link, to my PCB project, there you can see, how I manage to start the PSU. https://easyeda.com/Noothless2/ra-power-supply-adapter
For motor connectors btw. I use bullet connectors and xt90 for the input.
These supplies also have sec.12V for eg. an arduino
I did not disconnect PE, I disconnected the DC ground, by isolating it from the PE connected case. I read about the diodes, I will add them in the next version of my PCB.
I also need to run two more stepper motors, a Jetson Nano running ROS and a seperate PC for programming. That won’t work with the remaining 80 watts. Therefore I deciced to run a 3 phase power cord, just to be on the safe side.
I will probably solder the wires directly to the ODrive. But for convenience I use 8mm bullet connectors, to be able to unplug it.
Thanks though!
Be careful, XT90s are only rated for 90 Amps. If you’re planing on using the whole 100 Amps, from the PSU, you’ll need to use bullet connectors as well. I recommend 8mm ones.
If anyone is interested in using this PCB: You can order them very cheaply on JLCPCB.com. Make sure though, to choose 2 oz copper weight, because the PCB won’t be able to handle 100 amps otherwise. There is a BOM list on the project page, where you can find links to the required parts.
Honestly guys, I would say you are close to setting your garage (hopefully not your house) on fire like this.
Using nylon screws and washers to bodge a 100A PSU into running in series configuration when it wasn’t designed to do so? 
BTW, to drive 100A through the motor, at less than top speed you don’t actually pull 100A from the PSU.
The current is recirculated through the diodes during the off-cycle of the PWM.
If the motor is stalled (ie not moving) but producing full torque, then the PSU current draw is very low, because the only power used is that needed to overcome the electrical resistance of the windings, heating up the motor. There is no mechanical power output, because velocity is 0.
If you compute I^2 * R using your motor’s winding resistance (plus the MOSFET on-resistance), this gives you the power in watts that you need from the PSU when the motor is stalled at 100A. You will find that it is MUCH less than 24*100, because the odrive is effectively lowering the voltage during the PWM cycle (it is acting as a switch-mode buck converter, with your motor as the inductor)
Generally, you don’t need a large power supply, even to drive a very high current motor. Just so long as you aren’t still driving that torque when you have reached a high speed.
What is your application?